Welting for use in the manufacture of shoes



Jan. 1 1935.

G. GODDU WELTING FOR USE IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed Feb. 29, 1952 v A ll Patented Jan. 1, 1935 UNITED 'STATES WELTING FOR USE IN THE MANUFACTURE 0F SHOES George Goddu, Winchester, Mala, auignor to United Shoe Machinery Co p ration, Paterson.

N. .L, a corporation of New Jersey. Application February 29, 1932. Serial No. 595.799 6 Claims. (01. 38-78) This invention relates to improvements in welt- I ing and is illustrated herein with respect to the manufacture of welted shoes havingcement attached soles.

In cement attaching soles to shoes it is usual to engage the sole by means of a pad containing a suitable fluid, such as air or water, while the toe portion of the shoe and the cone of the last on which the shoe is being made are supported by suitable abutments. The sole attaching pressure is either applied by or involves increasing the pressure of the fluid within the pad and this causes the exposed surface of the sole engaging wall of the pad to bulge, thereby tending to wrap the portion of the sole which extends beyond the last bottom into engagement with the shoe upper and producing the so-called rolled edge effect.

. While this appearance is desired in the manufacture of some styles of shoes there are other styles and types, among which are most welt shoes, in which the transversely curved bottom and the rather sharply rolled edge so produced are usually not desired. On the contrary, a relatively flat bottom is usually called for in a welt shoe of any type and a flat marginal portion with a .square edge to the sole is demanded for style reasons.

The invention of this application comprises improved welting, particularly adapted for use in the manufacture of shoes as disclosed in a copending application, Serial No. 699,049, filed November 21, 1933, as a division of the present application. The new welting, the upper-engaging or grain surface of which is pre-cemented, preferably after it has been roughened, is particularly useful in facilitating the obtaining of a tight, close edge in the manufacture of welted shoes, especially in the manufacture of welted shoes having cement-attached soles.

The invention will now be described with reference to the accompanying drawing and pointed out in the claims.

In the drawin Fig. 1 is a perspective view of an insole for use in manufacturing shoes in accordance with the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a sectional view on an enlarged scale on the line 11-11 in Fig. 1, but before any reinforcing material has been applied to the insole;

Fig. 3 is a sectional view on the line III-III of Fi 1;

Fig. 4 is a transverse sectional view through the forepart of a shoe in the course of manufacture in accordance with my invention, showing the condition after the completion of the lasting operation; Fig. 5 is a similar view after the completion of the welting operation;

Fig. 6 is a sectional view showing the construction of the shoe afterthe completion of the inseam trimming and inseam pressing or rolling operation;

Fig. 7 is a transverse section through a portion of the forepart of the finished shoe;

Fig. 8 is a transverse section through the forepart of a. shoe illustrating a step in the cement attachment of a welt to the overlasted margin of the shoe upper;

Fig. 9 is a sectional and perspective view of the welting shown in Fig. 5; and

Fig. 10 illustrates welding with a portion of its upper engaging surface coated with cement for use in the practice of the method illustrated in Fig. 8.

The insole 12, illustrated in'Figs. 1, 2 and 3, is made from a piece of leather stock of substantially uniform thickness and has. a lip 14 projecting upwardly therefrom. As illustrated in Figs.'1 and 3, the portion of the insole inside of the lip, as well as the inner surface of the lip,- is reinforced with a piece of duck 16 in the manner usual in the manufacture of Economy insoles. The insole is also provided with a shoulder 18, which as best shown in Fig. 2 is continuous with the base of the lip 14 while the edge 20 of the insole is of the full thickness of the original stock. This construction may be produced by removing from the peripheral portion of the upper face of the insole a piece of stock triangular in cross section (indicated by the space below the dotted line 19 in Fig. 2), the apex of the triangle lying at the corner formed by the intersection of the edge surface 20 and theupper surface 21 of the insole, its base extending heightwise' of the insole, about $4; of an inch or thereabouts from the edge of the insole, and its hypotenuse being inclined from its apex into the substance of the insole and intersecting its base about half way through the insole. The lip 14 is produced by cutting an inside channel in the usual way, with the bottom of the channel spaced from the shoulder 18 sufficiently to leave the necessary between-substance for the reception of the stitches of the inseam. The channel flap is then turned up, as illustrated in Fig. 2, and the reinforcing duck 16 applied in well-known fashion.

It may be noted here that in construing this specification and the accompanying claims such words as -up", upper", down, raising", etc. where applied to the insole and its parts are to be understood as applied to the parts when the insole is in the position it assumes when a shoe in which it is embodied is positioned bottom upwardly.

The insole 12 is tacked to a last 22 and the shoe upper assembled and lasted as in the manufacture of Goodyear Welt shoes. In Fig. 4 the upper 24 is shown as secured in lasted relation by means of staples 26 driven through the marginal portion of the shoe upper 24 and the lip 14 of the insole 12, the staples being clenched on the inner surface of the lip. This may be done, for example, with a side lasting machine of the character illustrated in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,796,451, granted March 17, 1931, on an application filed in the name of George Goddu. The toe and heel ends of the shoe may be lasted in any usual or preferred manner.

After the lasting the welt 28 is stitched to the marginal portion of the shoe upper and to the lip 14 of the insole by an inseam 30, as in the manufacture of Goodyear Welt shoes. This welt should be both light and narrow, and is preferably of a wedge formation, as clearly shown in Fig. 9. The welt may be, for example, of an inch wide and about /20 of an inch thick at its inner edge and thinned down almost to a feather at its outer edge. Preferably the welt is provided with a shallow groove 29 for the reception of the stitches of the inseam at its inner edge.

The inseaming operation will pull the shoe upper and the welt well down into the angle at the base of the shoulder of the insole, as shown in Fig. 5, so that after the inseam has been trimmed and pounded or rolled, for example with the well-known automatic leveling machine commonly used for leveling the soles of Goodyear Welt shoes, the sole receiving surface of the welt 28, together with the edge surface of the marginal portion of the shoe upper and the inseam produced by the inseam trimming operation, are fiat and substantially in the plane of the surface of the insole. This is well shown in Fig. 6. The welt 28, moreover, extends but slightly beyond the shoe upper sothat there is little tendency for it to yield under the sole attaching pressure. Plastic filler 32 (Fig. 7) is applied sparingly to the shoe bottom, it being desirable to do little more than to fill the gutter formed by the lifting of the insole lip 14.

The sole receiving surface of the welt 18 and the edge surfaces of the shoe upper and insole lip (indicated at 31 in Fig. 6) are then roughened and coated with a cellulose derivative cement such as pyroxylin cement which is allowed to dry. The marginal portion of a sole 34 is also roughened, first having been reduced in thickness if desired, and is coated with similar cement which is also allowed to dry. The dry cement on the sole (and if desired on the shoe bottom also) is activated with a suitable solvent or softener. Then the sole 34 is applied to the shoe and the shoe and sole are put under pressure, for example in a cement sole attaching machine of the character disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,897,105, granted February 14, 1933, on an application filed in the name of Milton H. Ballard. After the cement has set to form the permanent sole attaching means the shoe is taken from the pressure applying apparatus and is finished in the usual way. Since the sole and welt have not been rolled up about the shoe upper the shoe may be edge trimmed with a substantially square" edge to the sole and the marginal portion of the sole will be substantially flat as it is in a Goodyear Welt or a turn shoe. The sole may be edge trimmed closer than a Goodyear Welt shoe (see Fig. 7) as there are no sole attaching stitches to look out for.

If desired the welt 28 may be cemented to the shoe upper thus providing a particularly strong construction and aiding materially in maintaining the desired edge effect without affecting the appearance of the shoe. If this is to be done the overlasted portion of the shoe upper is roughened, for example after the lasting operation, the roughened portion extending peripherally of the shoe bottom and being that portion indicated by the reference character 40 in Fig. 4. This may be done with the aid of a rotating wire brush or any other suitable implement. The welt which is to be used in such a shoe has its upper engaging surface roughened and coated with pyroxylin cement, as illustrated at 42 in Fig. 10, over perhaps of its area, extending from its inner edge and opposite the stitch receiving groove. After the welt has been attached to a shoe, the inseam trimmed, and the bottom of the shoe otherwise prepared for the reception of the sole, the welt is lifted slightly, as shown in Fig. 8, and the cement 42 on its upper-engaging surface is activated with cement softener. When the sole is cementattached, as heretofore described, the s le attaching pressure serves not only to press the sole forcibly against the shoe bottom but also to press the welt against the overlasted margin of the shoe upper so that when the sole attaching pressure is relieved the welt will be flrmly cemented to the shoe upper.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. Welting having one of its surfaces provided with a stitch receiving groove adjacent to the edge of the welting, and the portion of the opposite surface adjacent to the same edge roughened and provided with a coat of pyroxylin cement.

2. Wedge welting provided with a stitch receiving groove on one of its faces adjacent to the thick edge of the welting, and having the portion of the opposite faces adjacent to the thick edge of the welting roughened and provided with a coat of dry pyroxylin cement.

3. Leather welting having a grain surface a portion of which is roughened and provided with a coat of dry cement.

4. Leather welting having a portion of one of its flat faces provided with a coat of dry cement, the remainder of that face being the grain of the leather and free from cement. v

5. Leather welting having a flesh surface provided with a stitch receiving groove adjacent to an edge of the welting and a grain surface opposite the flesh surface, the portion of the grain surface adjacent to said edge of the welting being roughened and provided with a coat of dry pyroxylin cement.

6. Leather wedge welting having a flesh surface provided with a stitch receiving groove adjacent to the thick edge of the welting and a grain surface opposite the flesh surface, the portion of the grain surface adjacent to the thick edge of the welting being provided with a coat of pyroxylin cement,

GEORGE GODDU. 

